Throughout garment development I
have gathered samples of multiple bodices and skirts that has shown the
progression of the alterations throughout the pattern cutting process. These
alterations allowed me to learn how easily and quickly alterations could be
made. I was able to construct these samples by using the knowledge that I have
gained from previous projects which shows my self-progression.
In this project I was able to look
into different techniques of constructing which has allowed me to expand my
skills and current knowledge in garment construction. I looked into dart
manipulation and panels, fish tail patterns and panelled patterns for the
skirt, all of which could be possible to construct my design but opted for the
ones that stuck to the concept of the design. I was also able to go back into
moulage for the veil which I was a technique that I learned earlier this year.
Problem solving played a big part
with construction as it played an important part in altering the patterns and
the garment. The issues that occurred were due to the bodice being too big for
the stand, excess fabric, placement of the pleats on the middle panel and the
lining. These issues were solved by going back to the patterns that were made
and adding on and taking away the excess to allow either function to the
garment and for the garment to appear more like the design. The main issue that
occurred was sowing the lining to the dress on the hem line, I found this
difficult as the dress appeared to be in a loop once it was inverted. With the
dress having a large hem it was important to line up the panels together to
ensure a smooth finish and presented to industry standard. Solving these
problems have allowed me to take my time with my process to ensure to prevent
problems occurring.
What went well with construction
was the assembling of the bodices together in the final fabric and of the
skirt. The fabric that I chose for this dress was black denim with a brocade
felt pattern. The fabric itself was made on the bias which helped the dress to
have flexibility with it being fitted to the body. For the placements of the
patterns I attempted to have a continuous pattern throughout the garment by
matching up the patterns for the dress with the pattern on the fabric. This
allowed the pattern to continue form the bodice to the skirt and throughout the
panels.
My concept for this project was
‘Black Beauty’ a concept which entailed bringing the beauty out of the darkness
which has been portrayed by the veil and the dress. The dress represents the
beauty as it holds the most detail and compliments the female body and the veil
represents the darkness, hiding the beauty within.
The design for the veil covered the
whole face and the shoulders, adding the armholes into the veil showed that the
beauty is strong enough to come through the darkness, ie: the veil. The
construction of the veil was best made from using the moulage technique, by
placing the dress on the stand and draping the chiffon material over the stand
I was able to use designer tape to mark out the new shape of the veil. Using
chiffon allowed the design to still have its darkness and be able to see
through the veil. Constructing the veil also gave me the opportunity to work
with binding.
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